Following on from Baum und Pferdgarten’s equestrian-themed spring 2026 collection, for pre-fall creative directors Rikke Baumgarten and Helle Hestehave took inspiration from an old Central Park Horse Show ad, featuring an image of a horse in a subway carriage. “It’s a really strange picture, but also very beautiful and poetic at the same time—it reminds you of this clash [between] city life and the countryside,” Baumgarten said in a preview. Bruce Davidson’s photographs of women dressed up on the subway during the ’70s and ’80s also made the duo consider how clothes offer a form of escape, “when you’re on your way from somewhere to another place.”
These kinds of tensions have long been central to the brand’s DNA, with previous collections exploring the interplay between masculine and feminine, sportswear and workwear. This season, a sturdy denim chore jacket contrasted with girlish polka dots, while a boxy suede jacket offset the more romantic floral motifs. Everyday staples were also given an update: see the cropped checked blazer featuring a bow fastening, and the pinstripe denim skirt that buttoned up on one side.
Overall, there was a softer feel to the offering, compared to the more structured pieces that have dominated Baum und Pferdgarten’s recent collections—a reflection, perhaps, of the multiple crises the world is going through right now. “We’re all eager for something more fresh and light,” Baumgarten said.
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