One year on from its big rebrand, UK-based fast fashion brand PrettyLittleThing is distinctly detached from its pink, playful roots. Flying unicorn motifs, neon bodycon dresses, and pool party content are nowhere to be seen, replaced by a grown-up palette of brown and beige, tailored separates, and stately home settings.
Working under the new strapline “legacy in progress”, the brand claimed last March it was “leaving ‘fast fashion’ as we currently know it behind” as part of a “comprehensive elevation”, reducing its offering to focus on design, quality, and fit. For parent company Debenhams, which also owns fast fashion retailer Boohoo, the rebrand has paid off. Previously contemplating selling off PrettyLittleThing, Debenhams confirmed it would keep the brand in its stable as profits are expected to rise to £50 million for the year ending February 28, up from expectations of £45 million.
But does the quality match the new quiet luxury aesthetic? Reviews are mixed. Some customers picked out singular pieces as feeling premium or fitting well, while others aired complaints about thin and low-quality fabric, or simply no noticeable improvement, despite price uplifts. “If they’re charging a lot more for this stuff, then it should have some sort of elevation in the actual product, not just the way that it looks,” noted one reviewer.
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“As part of the rebrand — and in line with what our customers are shopping for — over the last year we’ve broadened a number of ranges, including evening and occasionwear, which are typically more expensive categories,” a spokesperson for PrettlyLittleThing told Vogue Business. “We’ve also continued to invest in the quality and construction of our pieces, which is reflected in the pricing.”
PrettyLittleThing is not alone in trying to shake off fast fashion associations. From Zara to H&M, the old guard of fast fashion have been attempting to distance themselves from ultra-fast fashion newcomers for several years now, invoking quiet luxury aesthetics, embracing “elevation”, and releasing luxury-adjacent collaborations with respected industry figures. But is a new look enough? And how important are commitments throughout the supply chain to reduce production volumes and make higher quality clothing in better social and environmental conditions?
These are the types of considerations that matter if brands are determined to move upmarket. The steps to quitting fast fashion involve not just a move away from trends, but a deeper overhaul of the type of model that fuels overproduction and overconsumption. But, experts say, change is possible.
The new face of fast fashion
It makes sense that fast fashion brands would want to pivot their positioning. The sector is now firmly in the sights of regulators, who have sought to stunt its growth with actions such as blocking IPOs, imposing per-product surcharges, and trialing advertisement bans. In light of this heightened scrutiny — and the potential financial consequences — dissociating from the moniker is a shrewd move. Not to mention that the original fast fashion brands now find themselves undercut by ultra-fast fashion giants such as Shein and Temu, which have driven prices down and accelerated the speed of production even further.
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