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What’s This About
A bow tie is tied with the same movement as a shoelace bow, done at the neck, with one end folded into a bow and the other dropped over it, folded and pushed through the loop behind the first; Gentleman’s Gazette’s Black Tie Guide calls the process “virtually identical to tying a simple shoelace bow”, and it takes seven steps once the neckband is set to your size.
This guide answers the questions men ask on the evening they first pick one up, such as
• How do I tie a bow tie, step by step, without a video?
• Why does mine come out lopsided, and how do I fix it?
• What size do I need, and how do I set the neckband?
• Butterfly, batwing or diamond point, and which fabric for which occasion?
• Self-tie, pre-tied or clip-on, and does anyone notice?
and many more!
The steps are written for a mirror; read one, do it, then read the next.
Key Points
01There are seven steps. Drape with one end longer, cross, bring the long end up through the neck loop, fold the short end into a bow, drop the long end over it, fold the long end and push it through the loop behind, tighten.
02Set the neckband before you start. R. Hanauer’s method is to measure the neck where the collar sits and add half an inch for comfort, then set the adjuster to that size.
03How even the bow should be is a matter of taste. Gentleman’s Gazette and Eton favour a slightly asymmetrical hand-tied bow, while R. Hanauer asks for loops and tails that are nearly symmetrical.
04Size the bow to the face. Gentleman’s Gazette passes on Alan Flusser’s rule that the finished bow should fall between the width of the face and the outer edges of the eyes, and R. Hanauer suggests a fuller butterfly for formal occasions.
The short answer
Tying a bow tie is tying a shoelace at your neck, blind, and the trick is to stop thinking of it as a knot and think of it as two folds.
One end is folded into a bow and held flat against the collar; the other end drops over the middle of it, is folded the same way, and is pushed through the loop that the first fold left behind; pulling on the loops tightens everything.
The Charles Tyrwhitt guide describes the same sequence in ten small steps and ends with one practical tip, to practise well ahead of the event and keep a ready-tied bow tie in your pocket just in case.
The rest of this page is the steps, the fixes for the ways it goes wrong, the sizing, and the shapes and fabrics.
Key rule. Fold the short end into a bow, drop the long end over it, fold the long end and push it through the loop behind the first bow, then pull the loops to tighten.
Set the size first
Set the neckband before the first step; if a bow tie will not tighten, the band setting is the first thing to check.
Measure your neck with a tape where the collar sits; R. Hanauer’s sizing guide says to wrap the tape “around the base of your neck where your collar would sit”, and its next instruction reads “Add ½ inch for comfort, especially if you’re wearing a stiff-collared dress shirt”.
Set the adjustable band to that number, using the marked sizes on the band, and try it on with the shirt you will wear; the band should sit, in R. Hanauer’s words, “snugly against your collar without gaps, pulling, bunching, or tightness”, and it adds that you should be able to slide one finger between your neck and the band.
Neck ranges vary by maker. R. Hanauer says adult bow ties typically run from 13 to 18 inches, and its own regular adjustable band covers a 15 and a half to 18 inch neck, with larger sizes above that; Gentleman’s Gazette’s Black Tie Guide describes the one-size adjustable bow as expected to fit necks from 14 to 18 inches. Check the maker’s chart.
A fixed-length bow tie, which Gentleman’s Gazette advises for evening wear because a wing collar shows the whole band, has to be bought in your neck size, and the same guide suggests measuring your neck rather than trusting the size on a shirt label.
Button the top button of the shirt and turn the collar up before you start; the band goes under the collar, and the collar comes down over it at the end.
How to tie a bow tie in seven steps
Stand at a mirror, collar up, and keep the band flat as you go, because a twisted band gives a twisted bow.
Step one. Drape the bow tie around your neck with one end hanging lower than the other; Charles Tyrwhitt’s instruction is “one side hanging down at least two inches longer than the other”, while R. Hanauer’s tying guide starts with the right end about an inch lower than the left.
Step two is to cross the longer end over the shorter one, close to the neck.
In step three, bring the longer end up behind the crossing and through the loop between the tie and your neck, forming a loose knot, and pull both ends snug to the collar; then lay the long end over your shoulder to keep it out of the way.
Step four. Take the shorter end, which is hanging down, and fold it in half at its widest point to make the first bow, over your index finger as Charles Tyrwhitt suggests; hold this folded bow horizontally across the collar, on top of the knot at the neck.
For step five, bring the long end down from your shoulder and drape it over the middle of the folded bow, so it hangs straight down in front of it. Holding it there, pull the first bow gently forward, and a small loop opens between the first bow and the collar; that loop is where the second fold will go.
Step six. Fold the hanging long end at its widest point, the same way you folded the first, then push the folded part, not the tip, through the loop behind the first bow and draw it about halfway through to form the second bow; keep the front bow’s centre pinched while you do it, and use your index finger to guide the fold, as R. Hanauer describes.
Step seven is to tighten by pulling gently on the loops, then adjust the front loops and the back ends against each other until the centre knot is small and firm; Charles Tyrwhitt’s phrase is to tighten “using the opposing front and back sides of each bow”.
Turn the collar down and check both wings in the mirror.
Scroll horizontally to see all columns →
| What went wrong | Likely cause | Fix |
|---|---|---|
| The second fold will not go through | The loop behind the front bow closed when you let go of it | Pinch the front bow’s centre with one hand throughout step six and push the fold with the other |
| One wing is much bigger than the other | The ends were not offset as your guide says at step one, or the folds were made at different points | Untie, re-drape, and fold both ends at the widest point of the wing |
| The knot is loose and the bow droops | The neckband is set too long | Tighten the adjuster half an inch and start again |
| The bow is twisted | The band twisted at step three | Start again with the band flat under the collar |
Once the bow is tied, adjust with small pulls rather than retying. Pull one wing’s front loop to enlarge it, pull the opposite back end to shrink it, and push the centre knot up towards the collar to tighten it.
How even to leave it is a matter of taste. Gentleman’s Gazette’s Black Tie Guide holds that “a slightly asymmetrical hand-tied bow adds a unique flair”, and Eton says a self-tied bow tie “will always be slightly crooked”; R. Hanauer asks for loops and tails that are “nearly symmetrical” and a finish “distinct from the uniformity of a clip-on”.
Butterfly, batwing and diamond point
The shape of the bow tie decides the shape of the bow. The widths below are from Gentleman’s Gazette’s Black Tie Guide, which means the vertical measurement of the blades; R. Hanauer calls the same dimension height, and its own figures are noted where they differ.
Scroll horizontally to see all columns →
| Shape | Blade width | The bow it makes | Wear it with |
|---|---|---|---|
| Classic butterfly | 3 to 3½ inches; R. Hanauer’s two butterflies are 2½ and 3 inches | A full bow with a small knot; the Gentleman’s Gazette bow tie guide describes it as tied “in a way that the knot is relatively small and you have beautiful wings just like with a butterfly” | Formal events, which R. Hanauer names as a popular use for it |
| Modern butterfly or thistle (semi-butterfly) | 2¼ to 2¾ inches; R. Hanauer’s classic rounded bow is 2¼ inches | The same shape, slimmer; Gentleman’s Gazette calls the 2.75-inch butterfly, popularised in the 1930s, the most classic shape | A versatile staple, in R. Hanauer’s description |
| Batwing (straight end or club) | 1½ to 2 inches; R. Hanauer’s is 2 inches | A narrow, straight-edged bow; Gentleman’s Gazette calls it “basically rectangular that gets slimmer around the neckband but it makes for a bigger knot” | Modern tailoring and casual settings, in R. Hanauer’s view; Gentleman’s Gazette notes that a very slim bow recalls the 1960s and can look dated |
| Diamond point (pointed ends) | A butterfly or batwing cut with pointed ends; R. Hanauer’s are 2 and 2⅜ inches | Asymmetrical by design, because, as Gentleman’s Gazette explains, the pointed end shows at the front on one side and at the back on the other | Daywear in Gentleman’s Gazette’s bow tie guide, and a peaked lapel with a wing collar in its Black Tie Guide; R. Hanauer sees it in both casual and formal looks |
On size, Gentleman’s Gazette’s Black Tie Guide notes the old rule that the bow should never extend beyond the edges of the collar and, because wing collars are now much smaller, prefers Alan Flusser’s rule that the finished bow should fall between the width of the face and the outer edges of the eyes. Its bow tie guide adds that a smaller head suits a smaller bow tie and vice versa, and that because a bow tie “already makes a louder statement than wearing a regular necktie”, very bright colours and loud patterns are best avoided.
For formal events, R. Hanauer’s advice is to choose “fuller silhouettes” such as the butterfly and to match the bow’s width to the scale of the dinner jacket’s lapels.
Which bow tie for which occasion
Black tie means a black silk bow tie, self-tied, matched to the lapel facings of the dinner jacket; Gentleman’s Gazette’s Black Tie Guide says the texture is governed by the facings, so a satin lapel calls for a satin bow tie and faille or grosgrain facings for a ribbed or textured one. Our black tie guide covers the rest of the outfit, and the black tie optional guide covers when a long tie will do instead.
White tie calls for a white piqué bow tie with a wing collar, as our white tie guide sets out; Gentleman’s Gazette advises a fixed-length bow tie with a wing collar, because the whole band shows.
Weddings, daytime and cocktail events suit silk in a colour or a small pattern, or wool, linen or cotton for a daytime jacket. Gentleman’s Gazette calls silk probably the most popular bow tie material, recommends wool challis for autumn and winter, and says velvet can look very debonair with a dinner jacket, while R. Hanauer suggests linen, cotton or patterned bow ties for daytime or less formal looks; our cocktail attire guide covers the outfit.
For business, Gentleman’s Gazette suggests a classic business bow tie, perhaps blue or red with a small micropattern that is easy to combine with the rest of the wardrobe.
Self-tie, pre-tied and clip-on
A self-tie bow tie is one long strip with a wing at each end, with an adjuster in the band unless it is a fixed-length one; a pre-tied one is a finished bow on an adjustable band that hooks at the back; a clip-on has no band and clips to the collar.
Gentleman’s Gazette is blunt, and its rule is “never wear a pre-tied bow tie because it always shows”; it says pre-tied bow ties are very symmetrical and often made of cheaper, shinier fabrics, and its Black Tie Guide adds that they often angle away from the face and are stiff.
The Black Tie Guide goes further, saying pre-tied bow ties “might look cute on little boys but a grown man should know how to tie his own neckwear”, and the bow tie guide treats the clip-on as a version of the pre-tied bow tie. Charles Tyrwhitt is more relaxed and suggests a ready-tied bow tie in your pocket as a backup, and Eton sells pre-tied bow ties while preferring one you tie yourself.
If you wear a pre-tied one, make sure the band sits under the collar with the hook hidden.
One reason to learn the self-tie comes at the end of the evening, when, Gentleman’s Gazette notes, it is typical practice to untie the bow tie and let it hang; a pre-tied one cannot be untied.
Common questions
How do you tie a bow tie step by step?
Drape it with one end lower, cross the long end over the short, bring the long end up through the neck loop, fold the short end into a bow and hold it across the collar, drop the long end over the middle, fold the long end and push the fold through the loop behind the front bow, then pull on the loops to tighten.
How do you tie a bow tie without a clip?
With the seven steps above. A self-tie bow tie is tied by hand each time, and once the band is set to your neck size, the adjuster stays where it is.
Why is my bow tie lopsided?
The ends were not offset as your guide says at the start, or one fold was made off the widest point; re-drape and fold both ends at the widest part of the wing.
A large difference is corrected by pulling the bigger wing’s back end and the smaller wing’s front loop; how much unevenness to keep is a matter of taste, and the guides above disagree.
What size bow tie do I need?
Measure the neck where the collar sits and add half an inch, as R. Hanauer advises, then set the adjuster to that mark. R. Hanauer’s regular adjustable band covers a 15 and a half to 18 inch neck, and a fixed-length evening bow tie must be bought in your neck size.
Should the bow tie match the cummerbund or the lapels?
The lapels. Gentleman’s Gazette’s Black Tie Guide says the texture of the bow tie is governed by the lapel facings, so satin goes with satin and a ribbed or textured bow tie with faille or grosgrain, and our black tie guide puts it as a black silk bow tie, ideally matching the lapel facings.
Sources checked for this article (12 September 2026, re-checked 12 October 2026)
Charles Tyrwhitt (US), How to tie a bow tie, https://www.charlestyrwhitt.com/us/editorial-style-tips/how-to-tie-a-bow-tie.html
R. Hanauer, Bow tie sizing 101: how to measure for a perfect fit, 29 May 2025, https://bowties.com/blogs/the-gentlemans-guide/bow-tie-sizing-101
R. Hanauer, How to tie a bow tie, https://bowties.com/pages/how-to-tie-a-bow-tie
Eton, How to tie a bow tie, Ludvig Sandell, 27 February 2023, https://www.etonshirts.com/us/en/journal/guides/how-to-tie-a-bow-tie
Gentleman’s Gazette, Bow tie guide, Sven Raphael Schneider, 27 August 2018, https://www.gentlemansgazette.com/bow-tie-guide/
Gentleman’s Gazette, Black Tie Guide, Classic neckwear: the black bow tie, Sven Raphael Schneider, https://www.gentlemansgazette.com/tuxedo-black-tie-guide/classic/black-bow-ties/
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