In the six years since it was established, Tove has ridden the quiet luxury wave right into our conservative era with a gut understanding of what women over 35 have been wanting to wear: ankle grazing dresses, high necklines, baggy trousers and long coats, offered each season in the richest of hues and cleverly twisted, draped and cut in the most feminine ways. The crowd at today’s show, which included pretty much every London-based woman with a serious fashion career, was a testament to that.
But much like in many of us, something seems to be shifting inside Holly Wright and Camille Perry, the women behind the brand. “We’ve now had the label for six years,” said Wright during a preview. “And as time passed, we’ve realized the strength in our experience. In a season of male dominance, it felt like it was time to stop hiding that and lean into a little more sexiness for our girl.”
And so for spring the necklines were lower and those that were high came backless—and without fastenings. Backless, too, were the ankle length dresses, which at times were also slit at the front. Baggy trousers had waist bands that revealed slithers of the model’s lower backside.
Much like the way psychological shifts only take place gradually, the new styles were cleverly styled and executed to maintain the subtlety we have come to expect from Tove. Some of the skimpier tops, for example, were loosely tied to an underlayer by the thinnest of laces. “It’s all about that hint of sexiness that you have to be of a certain age, and have a certain confidence to carry,” said Perry. “It doesn’t work on a younger girl. Our customer is older and she owns that. She wears it.”
Tove always stands out for its palette, and this season they pushed that a little more with a clingy viscose dress in hot pink. There were also four suede looks in a croc pattern, two in cream and two in a light blue that raised quite a few editors’ phones.
The show this season took place at the top floor of London’s Space House—a circular building with a sprawling city view. It was only the brand’s fourth, even though it was founded in 2019, a cadence that proves Wright and Perry’s meticulous approach. They insist on taking things slowly, and elevating gradually. “We took the time to cultivate the brand from the inside and now it’s about making sure that message goes out into the world in the right way,” said Perry. Today it was well received.
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