All eyes on jewelry
As the jewelry supercycle rages on, the category is increasingly showing up during Couture Week. Like couture clients, affluent jewelry consumers seem to be resilient to economic uncertainty. According to the latest Bain and Altagramma luxury goods study published in June, jewelry is leading the luxury sector’s growth.
“There [are clients who] get invited to the couture shows but only do jewelry,” says Silver, who, on Wednesday, hosted a private tour visit of the Pomellato exhibition on view at Palais de Tokyo with couture clients in attendance.
On Sunday night, Hermès celebrated Into the Horsecape, its latest high jewelry collection (called haute bijouterie at Hermès), designed by Pierre Hardy, with a lavish dinner at Musée des Arts Décoratifs, kicking off the week. Dior presented its Diorissima collection at Villa Dior, a space dedicated to Dior’s very important customers (VICs).
Boucheron presented its latest Carte Blanche high jewelry collection, titled Human Being, consisting of five parures. Boucheron confirmed the category and brand appeal: they present their Carte Blanche high jewelry collection to more and more clients and more and more journalists each season. This year, they hosted sessions for around 270 journalists, compared to 119 in July 2022. (Parent company Kering is building on the house’s strong legitimacy and fast growth to strengthen the category.)
Chanel, Chaumet, De Beers, and Messika were among houses that presented new high jewelry pieces throughout the week.
Cartier previewed its fine jewelry creations and precious bag collection. Los Angeles-based jewelry label Vram by designer Vram Minassian made his Paris debut this week during couture. Danish jewelry giant Pandora introduced a creative platform in collaboration with British stylist Harry Lambert, called Pandora Wonders.
Just as the week was winding down, we were given more to look forward to. On the last day of couture, as editors and clients were packing to go to Rome for Maria Grazia Chiuri’s debut couture show at Fendi, Hermès announced that it will present its first couture collection, designed by artistic director of women’s ready-to-wear Nadège Vanhée, during Paris Couture Week in January 2027.
At the end of it all, it’s clear that couture’s pull continues to strengthen.
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