Regular morning walks around London’s Barbican stirred up a desire in Eudon Choi to create a resort collection that was urban and rooted in a 1960s and ’70s sensibility, much like the Brutalist building itself, which was built during the time. Choi then looked to Antoine Doinel, protagonist of a series of films made from 1959 to 1979 by French director François Truffaut, and took “that essence into a women’s wardrobe,” he said.
The collection is dominated by reworked classic tailoring and workwear. Trench coats, shirting, and blazers with choose-your-own adventure buttons raise the possibility of a number of different drapes. Some jackets, cargo pants, and double layered dresses mixed viscose and linen to create a tonal effect. Choi also created a bomber jacket and matching pencil skirt in an Italian fabric featuring a subtle gray herringbone pattern, aimed at “modernising the classic tweed set.”
The last piece Choi made with his studio for the collection was something new for the brand: a playful, drop-waist dress made in a structured Mikado fabric, with a halter neck, open back, and gathered and puffed bottom. The black Hubert de Givenchy cocktail dress Jean Seberg wore in Otto Preminger’s Bonjour Tristesse was on Choi’s moodboard.
“Tailoring always captures the wide audience, but this season I wanted to be a little more daring when it comes to the dresses, I wanted to keep the essence young, relevant, and modern,” he said.
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