Daniella Kallmeyer is all about progressive curation. From antique piano shawls to classic blazers that possess a quiet confidence to patterns taken from vintage inlay, Kallmeyer’s ethos frequently emphasizes the art of collecting—and how that’s inevitably reflected in one’s own wardrobe. This season, these ideas were represented by what the designer dubbed “The Atelier Woman.” An exemplar of said woman is Leslie Manville’s character, Daniel Day-Lewis’s sister and atelier manager, in Paul Thomas Anderson’s The Phantom Thread. “She’s obsessive over the way things are meant to be, and she understands the labor of craft,” Kallmeyer explained. Still, there’s an enigmatic allure to her behind-the-scenes nature. The atelier woman is precise, but not severe; exacting but a little bit undone.
An apt example: The green knit sweaters that felt reminiscent of a label-less thrifted or hand-me-down that takes on a beloved and worn-in character the longer you own it. (A very New England approach to prep.) See also: the rolodex of tuxedo-inspired button-downs—a nod to the custom menswear look the designer made for Charles Porch at the 2026 Met Gala—which offered slight variations on a daily uniform. One 1950s-esque skirt-suit felt mature and thoughtful, but not out of place amid a draped “going-out top” or the more youthful velvet-denim sets.
Elsewhere, the collection wasn’t afraid to embrace a more festive attitude. But for Kallmeyer, such party dresses don’t always mean a stereotypical sparkling cocktail getup. Instead, the designer’s attention to detail and materiality imbued the garments with her signature minimalist twist. One could easily imagine the matte coned sequin coordinating set on the dance floor alongside the long-sleeve navy dress at The Phantom Thread’s balloon-filled New Year’s Eve bash. The “fancier” dressing offered artisanal novelty without straying too far from the Kallmeyer classics, creating a seamless story from start to finish.
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