To win more male attention in China, Xu recommends brands invest in activations to share insight from behind the scenes — not only runway shows, but detailed information on brand concept, fabric, and silhouette. “Male consumers are more like brand disciples,” she says. “They’re not only buying for a ‘look’, they want to hear the ideas and beliefs of the brand.”
On the flip side, the lack of boundary-pushing menswear means less competition, which Darmon says presents an opportunity for designers with a strong point of view. “If you really go for menswear and specialize in it, then you can become the only option,” she says. Darmon cites Untitlab among the labels to watch, known for its bold, kinky footwear (it recently went viral thanks to Alexander Skarsgård wearing the brand’s Fisherman boots), and Structura, which makes minimal, sporty menswear. “In terms of pattern, it’s giving something super new.”
Other brands are deepening their sports-focused offerings in order to compete. 8ON8 is planning to focus more on sportswear, building on the long-term collaborations it has done with the likes of Asics, in order to appeal to male consumers. “8ON8 itself has a strong sports DNA,” Gong says. “In the future, for young Chinese men, I will focus more on enhancing [those] aesthetics, on top of functionality.”
Potential for foreign players
Q1 has seen many brands launch activations in the Chinese market, including Maison Margiela choosing Shanghai for its first-ever runway outside Paris with a show that included menswear, womenswear, and its Artisanal line, as well as Ralph Lauren’s flagship opening in Chengdu, with expectations for the brand’s China business to grow “at least double digits”, according to CEO Patrice Louvet.
Though success with menswear in China isn’t guaranteed, the country still offers a large and dynamic market that many are keen to tap into. The French Menswear Federation made a strategic move into Shanghai this season, with a dedicated showroom that featured four French designers: Baziszt, Ludovic de Saint Sernin, Egonlab, and Coltesse. The hope is that these menswear labels can grow their businesses in the Chinese market, as part of long-term expansion plans. “Interesting brands can make good business in Asia more easily than [they can in] Europe,” says Guillaume Ruby, the federation’s communications director, adding that the designers were surprised by how many local buyers expressed interest in their collections. “In Europe, it takes more time.”
Even so, without a strong grasp of the local market, global brands can also struggle to gain traction. Element’s Zhu warns against treating China as one market. “When developing a foreign brand in China, it’s necessary to have a thorough understanding of China’s national conditions and market. The environment, climate, and food in different cities are very different,” he says. “As the most developed city in China’s economy, Shanghai is highly internationalized. There are some men in Shanghai who often travel or study abroad, so their consumption habits are relatively international. But such men are only a small part of Shanghai, and the residents of each city have different lifestyles and consumption views.”
Ruby advises brands to be open and flexible when joining the Chinese menswear market. “You can either enter by doing a collaboration, for instance, or by trading with a big retailer,” he says. “And remember that it’s not a small market, so you need to be prepared in terms of production and delivery. Things can happen much faster here.”
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