“I remember seeing Jack and Lazaro’s first collection [for Loewe] and Jonathan’s first collection [for Dior], and really starting to mentally be able to play with who can wear these pieces,” she says. Rahmani then negotiated the deal confirming Isla Johnston, who will star in Baz Luhrmann’s upcoming Joan of Arc, as the first Loewe ambassador under the new creative directors.
Locking into contracts
Clients with longer-term deals are typically limited in what else they can wear — how limited depends on exclusivity stipulations in the contract. Oftentimes, brands will explicitly ban talent from wearing their main competitors.
Some brands that aren’t explicitly banned can still be touchy, agents flag. “I think if you are going to wear a brand that teeters being on a competitor list [but isn’t], you have the conversation with your talent and their stylist: ‘Is that going to rock the boat?’ Longevity is so important, so I would say don’t rock the boat,” Browne says. Rahmani agrees; her rule of thumb is to be fair, and try not to irritate designers.
This is where independent designers can shine, typically at smaller awards shows or film premieres. They won’t ever be on a restricted list, says Browne, whose client Mescal wears many such brands, including New York’s Commission and Charles Jeffrey Loverboy, with the help of his stylist Felicity Kay. Stylist Danielle Goldberg also prioritizes indie designers alongside major brands: her client Greta Lee (a Dior ambassador) frequently appears in New York brands such as Diotima, Colleen Allen, and Luar.
More opportunities for brands lie in the full look. Talent who work with a brand’s jewelry and watches or beauty arm don’t necessarily have to wear the clothes. Some agreements are multi-category, which means the talent will be required to wear, say, fashion and makeup, but many don’t stipulate this, Hudson says. At UTA, they try to keep the deals separate, Rahmani says. “If you are an ambassador for X brand and they would like you to wear their jewelry, we typically don’t have much issue with that,” she says. “But they don’t need to be required to wear it on a red carpet.” Head-to-toe looks, from the earrings to the nail polish, tend to feel forced.
Robbie, for instance, is now the face of Chanel Beauty, as well as its watches and jewelry. This means she can wear any brand, given she’s not the face of its fashion product, Graboff confirms. But jewelry and beauty deals can open a window for talent who are keen to dabble in a brand’s fashion. Pidgeon is a newly minted ambassador for Chanel watches and jewelry, and has worn the brand’s clothes on a number of recent occasions, including to the Love Story premiere and for a Jimmy Kimmel appearance in New York.
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