David Koma has swapped one airborne muse for another—after a Supergirl-inspired, comic book-colored pre-fall collection, fall 2026 began with the image of a swan cutting across a brutalist cityscape, feathered wings silhouetted against exposed gray concrete that Koma saw on a walk through London’s Hyde Park. It’s these juxtapositions that inform Koma’s design dichotomy for the woman he dresses: a controlled, cool-toned feminine aesthete.
The concept of ‘femininity’ in contemporary design could swing to one of two extremes: a diaphanous silhouette that wisps around the curves, or some armor-like power shoulders. (Maybe even a pannier or a bustle, as the last few weeks have shown.) “I wanted to find that real sense of tension between fragility and discipline,” Koma said. His woman exercises sensuality through restraint, waiting for the approach, before the swift and sleek unfurl of her wings like a warning. Feather-pleated and ruffled collars framed the clavicle and layers of tulle kicked out from the hips, set against an architectural series of structured, elongated tailoring, puddling skirts, and plunging corsetry. Sexy dresses were tempered with tuxedo-like details, while knife-lapeled suits could be cinched, and outerwear confidently took up space: a gradient-toned, double-effect shearling coat sat up high on the shoulders like raised hackles. All-out glamour and a welcome sense of humor were delivered in flashes as quick and precise as the clean cuts of bare sternums and waists, like a showgirl in her crystal-embellished bra and knicker set with feathers spearing from the bottom.
“We’re very proud that most of our pieces have a demi-couture seal to them,” Koma said, “even in this ready-to-wear form.” The monochrome color palette, in stony whites and onyx, amplified the attention to textures and tactility: wings of Mongolian wool, 3D embroidered leather floral motifs, matte sequin bouclé, brooch-like buttons, and an almost translucent lace over silks that recalled the first whisper of winter ice on an English lake.
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