“It’s Powerful to See a Woman at the Helm”: First Reactions to Meryll Rogge’s Marni

Alex Kessler, deputy editor, i-D

It was a smart move to open with a nod to Consuelo Castiglioni. That first look felt like a respectful wink to the house’s DNA and set a confident tone for Meryll Rogge’s debut at Marni. You could see the outline of this art-collecting, slightly cerebral, beautifully offbeat woman, who has a job (!) starting to form. As the show unfolded, though, she seemed to multiply into a whole cast of characters, each with her own wardrobe, and the narrative got a little crowded. Where it really landed for me was that middle section, all paillettes, crunchy textures, and gloriously funky color clashes. That felt instinctive and alive. I love a woman who dresses like she means it.

The menswear might need more time to develop. Still, as a debut, there’s real promise. And it’s powerful to see a woman at the helm, stepping into that legacy and beginning to shape it in her own voice.

Nick Tran, buying director, Dover Street Market Paris

It was Consuelo remixed with what’s contemporary now. I loved the adornments; the sound as they walked was magical.

Jack Moss, fashion features director, Wallpaper

I think Meryll really captured the idea of eclecticism, which feels at the heart of Marni, not only in the clash of prints and embellishment — the stripes and the flowers, the giant paillettes — but also a parka or sweater worn with a cocktail dress, this mash-up of elements. It really felt like a return to the spirit of Consuelo and the origins of the brand. There was some great menswear, too, which felt unexpected: the wide-shoulder tailoring, the riffs on sportswear, the references to western-wear. It was a strong start.

Patrick Pendiuk, fashion features director, Vogue Germany

I was very excited to see the collection professionally, but also as a Marni customer for several years. Many looks reminded me of the Castiglioni Marni I fell in love with, some others screamed Meryll’s name, in the best way possible. Overall, a safe and good start for a new Marni era, plus some jackets I will definitely not be able to resist buying for myself.

Carlo Capasa, president, Camera della Moda Italiana

I think it’s a great collection, a very beautiful interpretation of Marni. I really felt that Marni had come home, but in a completely new way. It’s good to have [another] woman designer in Milano, I’m very happy because it brings a strong energy to the week.

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