Brandon Maxwell opted out of a runway show this season. On the runway, “you have to do the most,” he said, “and I want to make a black pant, a great cashmere sweater, a black tailored jacket.” The differences between this collection and the spring one he showed on the catwalk in September are obvious: no novelty prints, no cow spots, no sequined florals.
It would be a mistake to think of his new outing as basic, though. The velvet blazer that opens the lookbook has a curvaceous sculptural shape thanks to its neoprene backing; the cashmere sweaters flash sexy cut-outs and luxe silver hardware to keep them in place; and he designed both trousers and jeans with inverted pleats on the outside of the legs to create their generous proportions. Skirts shimmied with hand-cut fil coupé strings or laser-cut leather strips, while tuxedo bib shirts available in white cotton or black nappa leather came with cummerbund-like integral scarves. For lasting value, car coats with faux shearling collars are definitely worth a closer look.
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