Having undertaken a trunk show in Houston, Texas, Jenny Packham drove to Santa Fe and on to Abiquiú to see Georgia O’Keeffe’s home, Sol Y Sombra. The British designer found herself enchanted by the American Modernist painter’s environment and Pueblo-style adobe, and seeing how that translated into her work up close: the colors of a scorched landscape and the natural world that defies it; the tension between the precise details and the powerful expressions of feminine energy; how flowers unfurl to reveal more to the gaze that asks for it.
How this was articulated in Packham’s pre-fall 2026 collection began with color: a kaftan in a deep turmeric shade, a shimmering and strong-shouldered gown in cobalt blue, and slinky onyx and saffron-toned dresses. There was more satin cut on the bias and crepe that moved sensually with the body, inspired by O’Keeffe’s contouring, curvaceous lines. Somewhat surprisingly, O’Keeffe’s own approach to dressing—sometimes austere, androgynous, all-black—was also a reference point for Packham, informing assured tailored silhouettes (O’Keeffe rejected the corsets of her time) and finding kinship with Packham’s signature, statue-esque capes. Embellishment is a key part of the label’s lexicon, but there has been an evolution of sparkles: here delicate bugle beads were mixed with percolating sequins to create more storied textures, waved crystalline necklines, folded and arrow-headed sequins like an O’Keeffe-ian feather.
The growing offering of shorter, swishier cocktail dresses are pacing for the brand, while sleek crepe gowns with more sparing details are gaining ground on the familiar bead-adorned favorites, signaling a broadening scope for Packham as she explores a more youthful customer base. The designer said she’s had fun exploring new details, like tasseled hems and low backs, and re-introducing halterneck and strapless designs. But the awards season circuit and the enduring appeal of old Hollywood glamour keeps her label confident in its bestselling, scintillating styles.
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