When it comes to anti-aging skincare formulas, growth factor serums are perhaps the most mysterious of the bunch. These rejuvenating formulas are praised for improving skin hydration and elasticity, smoothing skin texture, fading hyperpigmentation, and even firming up sagging, aging skin, so it’s no surprise that they’re bestsellers—but what actually are growth factors?
Growth factors are naturally occurring proteins that are produced by your body’s cells, and they’re essential to healthy skin. “They act as signaling molecules that communicate with skin cells to stimulate collagen production, promote cell turnover, enhance wound healing, and improve overall skin tone and texture,” explains double-board-certified facial plastic and reconstructive surgeon Eunice Park, MD.
Vogue’s Favorite Growth Factor Serums
SkinMedica TNS Advanced+ Serum
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The Ordinary GF 15% Solution
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Dr. Diamond’s Metacine Instafacial Plasma
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Unfortunately, our natural production of growth factors declines as we get older, says board-certified internist and longevity expert Amanda Kahn, MD. “This contributes to the thinning, wrinkled, less firm, less elastic, and sagging skin we see with age,” she explains. By replenishing your skin’s reserves of these powerhouse proteins, a good growth factor serum can help the skin function at its best, says board-certified facial plastic surgeon Sean Alemi, MD, allowing skin cells to react and repair at their full capacity. That translates into your skin looking its best, too. “They can help with cell turnover and collagen production that can help reduce fine lines and wrinkles,” says double-board-certified dermatologist Lauren Moy, MD.
Faster cellular turnover and increased collagen production translate into firmer, smoother, glowing skin that looks clear, fresh, and even—you know, everything on your wish list from a beauty product. What’s especially valuable about growth factor serums is that they tend to be non-irritating, making them ideal for all skin types, even sensitive. Growth factors work slowly to transform your skin, unlike harsher, faster-acting actives like exfoliating acids and retinoids.
With all these benefits, growth factor serums may come across as an obvious routine must-have, but keep reading before you invest: Not all anti-aging skin-care formulas in this category are created equally. Where things get tricky is the ingredient sourcing—for example, human growth factors are found in some of these rejuvenating serums. (Some may find this ingredient compelling, while others could find it disconcerting.) With the help of our experts, we’re breaking down exactly what these actives are, what you should look for in an effective product, and a few of our favorite formulas to add to your cart.
In This Story:
Best Overall: SkinMedica TNS Advanced+ Serum
- Why We Love It: “This is considered the pioneer and gold standard of growth factor serums, as one of the longest on the market and the best researched,” Dr. Kahn says. The formula contains human fibroblast conditioned media, which is naturally rich in growth factors and other cellular material that your own growth factors need to thrive, as well as peptides, microalgae, and more marine extracts that work to firm and smooth skin. The unique treatment is actually two serums in one, housed in a dual-chamber bottle that pumps out the perfect blended dose. It’s silky, absorbs beautifully, and sits well under other products (even makeup), making it easy to incorporate into your routine.
- Type of Growth fFctor: Human fibroblast conditioned media
- Key Ingredients: Peptides, algae extracts
- Size: 1 fl. oz.
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