Call it The School of Rick: this weekend in London, Leo Prothmann became the latest protégé of Rick Owens to take a bow after a potential breakthrough show. The Munich-born, Spain-raised, London-dwelling designer delivered a leather-heavy collection that blended equestrianism, geekiness and eroticism in powerfully effective equal measure.
The show was held in the terrace bar of the Mandrake Hotel against a backdrop of three poles, to which were mounted saddles. A retinue of powerfully ripped male models emerged in utility-pocketed leather shorts, many-zippered falconry gauntlets, leather accessorized Converse Chuck Taylors, and some frankly inadequate-looking leather chest harnesses. They were then joined by three female members of Prothmann’s diversely extended cast, one of whom laid her handbag into the ceremonial care of a hunky attendant. The three models then mounted the saddles and began a 15-minute rotation of expressive movement as the rest of the looks passed.
The collection was entitled Gaia, after the Ancient Greek deity who birthed both the world and all other gods in that culture’s pantheon. Speaking before the show Prothmann said he imagined his characters on the Giant’s Causeway in Ireland: it didn’t take a wizard to conjure that Prothmann is a fan of fantasy. “Yes!” he said: “I’m 28, and growing up me and my brother were always watching The Hobbit, Harry Potter, Lord of The Rings. I’ve got a lot of connection to fantasy, and maybe this is borderline LARPing.”
Amongst the roles being played in Prothmann’s live action fashion show were heroes, villains, vixens, seers and more. Converse and a predisposition for brown apart, what linked them most often and most literally were the raised leather tag panels, attached by rivet, at one shoulder. Along with the round-armed, full-shouldered and cropped cut of a notably well constructed and decoratively industrial bomber jacket, these suggested that Prothmann’s design language is advanced and distinct. And while the eroticism and fantasy in his collection was without question fun enough to watch, it was this glimmer of inventive commercial pragmatism mixed within it that cast an especially powerful spell.
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