The intention behind N.Hoolywood’s Test Product Exchange Service (TPES) collections is, as Daisuke Obana explains, “to revisit classic military garments that people can genuinely wear in everyday life, and reinterpret them through my own modifications.” At first glance, this sub-label tends to communicate a certain ho-hum utilitarianism, but don’t be fooled—at NH, everything is intentional.
As the Air Force was the starting point for the fall 2026 collection, the designer explored details unique to garments with aerial functionality, which include “harness systems for parachutes and pocket placements that allow easy access while seated in the cockpit,” as Obana explained via email (see look one for an example of the latter.) The strategy with the TPES line is deciding which elements to keep and which to jettison, as the idea isn’t to merely create replicas, but stylish adaptations for civilian use.
Having looked at authentic garments from the ’40s through the ’60s, the team photographed the new designs, according to Obana, “across a variety of environments that reflect different aspects of Air Force operations. These include brush landscapes, coastlines, airports, military bases, and other locations.” Given the recent discussions about the shrinking size of male models, the casting, which is reflective of the kind of body diversity you might find in the Forces, was notable.
Asked about the elastic-looking bands at the mid-thigh on a pair of pants, Obana explains that “the detail is inspired by the M-51 field pants adopted by the U.S. military in the 1950s,” and that they “help minimize movement of the contents inside the pocket and improve mobility.” Among the materials used is a light but sturdy cotton herringbone (look 5), and a vintage-look jeans set is made using an “from 11-ounce denim woven with slub yarns and nep yarns,” should you want to be exact about it. An Obana always does. It’s his attention to minutiae that is the brand’s USP.
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