This year marks Monique Lhuillier’s 30th in business, so when she sat down to craft her new fall collection, she decided to take things back to the beginning and focus on the evening dressing that her customers still flock to her for. “We really dove into our archives,” she said.
At the same time, Lhuillier also wanted to modernize and refresh her signature assortment of cocktail dresses and gala gowns, in a way that reflects what women want to wear now. A sense of ease and non-fussiness made its way into her formal designs. Her customers don’t want anything too constricting or complicated, so she prioritized an effortless approach. Think: gala dressing, without all of the pretentiousness.
A strapless pink chiffon gown, for one, had a sense of airiness and iridescence; you can slip it on, and instantly feel ethereal, without requiring a whole glam team or degree to get into it. Seperates also appeared in unlikely ways: Her golden sequin “column gown” was actually a discrete two-piece set consisting of a slinky top and full-length skirt that seamlessly blended into each other. “There’s a lot of modernity in this collection,” said Lhuillier. “It feels more effortless, versus having everything super-fitted.”
Of course, more traditional evening garments were part of the mix too. Long-sleeved lace gowns were updated in hues like shocking pink, while her full ball skirts felt a little more architectural and bold, paired with body-skimming velvet bodices. A fiery-red ball gown made with over 80 yards of tulle is a frock so head-turning it belongs on a red carpet. “She just floats into a room [wearing this],” said Lhuillier. More like stops traffic in it.
The small but mighty lineup of day pieces included a tailored coat appliquéd with flowers made out of silk organza and feathers for movement. Elsewhere, her jeans looked fresh; denim is a category that she could expand upon. The collection ranged from the conservative to the risk-taking, and Lhuillier said the clear dichotomy was intentional. “We have multi-generational customers—we dress the daughter, mother, and grandmother.”
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