Pre-fall is a fuzzier in-between season than resort. Fewer brands invest in shows, and the time frame in which collections are rolled out feels almost as long as the period in which the merchandise is in stores. The result this year is that the trends represent broad-stroke thinking rather than the micro forecasting common to digital platforms.
The biggest story is the body—especially the shoulders. Linebacker proportions and pads have been abandoned in favor of skin-revealing designs, which narrow and feminize the silhouette; cue Grace Kelly in Rear Window. This less strident mode of dress is in keeping with a move toward conventionality, which can be understood as a reaction to the world’s chaotic state. Also tending toward the traditional are the prep references jump-started last year by Jonathan Anderson and Michael Rider at their debuts for Christian Dior and Celine, respectively, only here they take the form of sporty striped rugby shirts and twinsets. T-shirts are the favored base for layering over a tank, another tee, or a Chanel dress.
Where shoulders go slim, pants go wide. Anderson called it “couture volume on the side.” That notion was expanded on in other collections featuring asymmetric hems, side streamers, and trains, all of which lend garments a sense of drape and flow. Structure was served up in outerwear. The funnel neck remains popular, though the best way to conquer rain showers this year is with a caped trench.
Getting more granular, broderie anglaise replaced more delicate lace. Transparency also remained in focus; this season it was used to reveal lots of leg. (Miniskirts did the same without a titillating filter.) Elsewhere, animal-themed garments offered comic pushback to the toxic dog-eat-dog tendencies of the day.
Cold Shoulders: Designers Signal a Return to a Narrow Silhouette
Padding and linebacker proportions are replaced by skin-revealing halter-neck and off-the-shoulder cuts.
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