Others are more skeptical of the withdrawal and worry about what it means for the safety of cosmetics. “This announcement means Americans will be needlessly exposed to asbestos in personal care products,” says Tasha Stoiber, PhD, Environmental Working Group’s (EWG) senior scientist.
According to a survey done by EWG’s Skin Deep database, more than 3,000 products contain talc as an ingredient, with almost 60% of those being powder products. As Koestline explains it, pure, cosmetic-grade talc is safe, and the real problem is with contaminated talc. “Talc deposits in the earth often sit near asbestos deposits, which means contamination can occur if the mining and refinement processes aren’t tightly controlled,” she says. “The risk isn’t from talc as an ingredient, but from inconsistent testing and sourcing practices. Without mandatory standards, you’re relying on the integrity of each supplier and manufacturer.”
Fernando Carnavali, MD, associate professor of general internal medicine at Mount Sinai Hospital, explains that asbestos, which is a known human carcinogen that can cause asbestosis, mesothelioma, and lung and ovarian cancers, is not safe at any level of exposure. “When these products are applied, microscopic asbestos fibers can become airborne, be inhaled, and become lodged in the lungs or other tissues,” says Dr. Carnavali.
Dr. Stoiber adds that even the tiniest bit of exposure can trigger these diseases years later and that studies show that more than 60% of mesothelioma cases in women are likely linked to “non-occupational asbestos exposure,” such as using contaminated talc products.
But the FDA wants to assure the public that it is still working to make talc as safe as possible, despite walking back the testing rule. “The FDA remains committed to assessing the safety and necessity of the use of talc in the American food and drug supply, and the topics discussed at the Expert Panel in May,” writes Emily G. Hilliard, press secretary at the US Department of Health and Human Services, in an email statement to Vogue. “The FDA will submit a new proposed rule that offers a more comprehensive approach to reducing exposure to asbestos and reducing asbestos-related illness, including identifying safer additives as alternatives, especially when they are less costly.”
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