Emilie Martinsen-Kønigsfeldt is taking By Malene Birger in a direction that’s more ladylike than bohemian. When she describes the resort collection as being “a little bit retro,” she doesn’t mean it looks vintage, but rather that it’s polished and feminine. Case in point: A black pantsuit with slim-cut trousers and a collarless jacket edged with black and white braid. “I said to the design team, ‘If I were a jacket, I would definitely be that jacket,’” the creative director related with a smile. While classic, this topper is softer and more sensual than what you’d see at Le Cirque circa 1986.
This is an offering that encourages ASMR responses through sound—see the knit cape and skirt embedded with pearls—and touch. Pettable doe-patterned pony hair is used for a coat and, winningly, for a perky mini paired with a crisp pink shirt. There’s also a cardigan adorned with felted, raised appliques inspired by Robert Mapplethorpe’s flower studies. Movement enters the picture through fringe, which trims the cape-front and low-cut back of a dress, plus a tassel-trimmed A-line trench. The reference for this was an Italian interior, but it also speaks to the Poiret-isms we’ve been seeing lately. In any case, this collection is fully in the swing when it comes to dressing smartly, but with ease.
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