SF1OG remained true to its melancholic teenage starting point for fall 2026, rooted somewhere between 2003 and 2007, the era after early Y2K optimism and before the financial crisis. Shaped by emo culture, MySpace, and the relentless glare of paparazzi, the time’s darker, more vulnerable aesthetic formed the basis of the collection, expanded through Victorian references.
Rather than starting with a concrete image, designers Rosa Marga Dahl and Jacob Langemeyer began with a feeling. “Who are you when no one is watching, and what changes when you are?” Dahl asked before the show, which was staged in a brutalist postwar building in Berlin. In the 2000s, pop stars like Amy Winehouse and Lindsay Lohan played out their personal crises amidst much public scrutiny, exposed to the harsh flash of cameras. Meanwhile in the Victorian era, widows made grief deliberately visible through black mourning gowns, heavy drapery, and veils—clothing that communicated loss outwardly while shielding the inner self. This tension between façade and concealment was central to the collection.
Bar jackets with flared peplums met deliberately awkward slim-fit denim; eveningwear collapsed into oversized cardigans and scarves large enough to disappear into. The impulse toward retreat appeared in high collars, hoods, and deep side parts that obscured nearly half the face, projecting a distinct outsider attitude echoed in the soundtrack: “I’m a creep, I’m a weirdo.”
At SF1OG, layering functions as both shield and revelation. Reused antique linens, leather, and shearling sit alongside silk, sequins, and velvet—materials that never look pristine. “The uncertainty of the world has created a longing in our generation for what once was,” Dahl said. “At the same time, we’re ready to be more expressive again, not just clinging to safety, but trying to break away from it.” And that, too, is youth culture.
That tension resonates amid the ongoing indie sleaze revival. SF1OG’s 2010s-inspired denim—a sensibility few designers have dared to revisit so far—was well received by buyers in Paris, thanks to noticeable improvements in quality. They’re hoping the brand’s first leather college-style bag, unveiled on the runway this season, will follow suit.
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