The new year brings with it a new start for Jonathan Cohen, who has partnered with Marina and Ricardo Larroudé, who have integrated the production of his ready into facilities in Brazil. Going forward, Cohen will present his work under White Label and Black Label lines; the former offered in see-now, buy-now drops, and the more intricately worked Black Label pieces released on an as-ready basis. “We saw an opportunity to bring more creatives into this power machine that we were able to create in terms of a company and then add their layers so then they can take care of just the creativity part,” said Marina Larroudé. “So the vision, the products, the design—all of it—it’s Jonathan, but it’s powered by us as the backend.”
Although you won’t see Cohen wearing the dresses, separates, and shoes from this collection (the scarves, yes), he designed it for himself in the sense that it is aimed at the “aspirational customer,” with who he identifies, and who he feels has been “completely avoided and ignored.” Jonathan Cohen White Label is, in essence, what is sometimes called a contemporary or bridge collection, meaning considered design within an accessible price range. Fifteen years in, he knows the fit and sense of fun his customers want. Rather than focus on concept design, Cohen has honed in on solutions dressing. Not only can the looks easily segue into an existing wardrobe, but the designer has also anticipated the wearer’s needs by pre-tying and carefully draping a cropped white button-down and integrating his popular bustier into a dress.
The silhouettes are few, a shirtdresses, pants, tops, a wrap dress and skirt. The same pieces made up in denim, or a black satin upcycled from Larroudé’s factories (sustainability remains a brand value) read very differently, however. Cohen loves a print and he hand-painted a black and white stripe for this drop; there is a red ditsy floral as well. Color, this time around, comes in the detailing, rather than the main material. Vari-colored zig-zagged stitching and custom buttons trim most looks. The playfulness of these easy on-and-off pieces feel like they carry on a tradition set by Seventh Avenue stars like Stephen Burrows and Byron Lars.
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