Headlines from Wine Enthusiast to The Economist all say the same thing: Americans are drinking less. Young adults, in particular, have seen their numbers drop most significantly in the last few years, according to a Gallup poll, with just 50% reporting drinking regularly.
In reality, articles equating wine to cigarettes aren’t telling the entire story. Silicon Valley Bank’s 2025 State of the US Wine Industry Report blames changes in consumer attitudes for the downward trajectory, and suggests “aggressive category marketing and promotions” to help reverse the downturn in demand. Given the 21-29 age band mentioned in the report, however, Gen Z doesn’t seem to be part of that marketing strategy. “The wine industry complains about young people not drinking, but they’re terrible to them,” says Cokie Ponikvar, a wine influencer.
The generation born between 1997 and 2012 grew up online, seeking validation from peers and strangers on everything from hairstyles to higher education. But the wine industry isn’t listening. Rob McMilan, EVP & founder of SVB Wine Division, writes in the report’s introduction that “there is hard work ahead, but I do not doubt that creativity, something we have in abundance, will provide solutions.” That creativity he’s seeking? It comes from thinking outside the norm, leaning into new mechanisms for telling ancient stories, and listening to diverse voices.
Yet, there is a small subset of Gen Z sommeliers who are carving out their own paths in a world that doesn’t always seem to want them. “[Sommeliers] are paying for the sins of previous generations; people who talk down to their guests,” says Tia Polite, a Chicago-based sommelier. “I’ve always tried to take the edge off right away and say, ‘Let’s have fun with this.’”
These sommeliers are bucking the perception that Gen Z isn’t interested in drinking wine by dedicating their livelihoods to the stuff. They are betting big on Master Sommelier accreditations, building inventive lists that celebrate small-batch producers, and traveling internationally on their own dime for a career in the wine business. Each of them has developed robust wine programs at some of the country’s most prestigious hospitality groups, leaning into their youth by developing original approaches to antiquated systems. “Because wine is so noble, [the industry] can be very traditional. I see it as my role to bring this art in a very passionate and very non-traditional sense,” says sommelier Tess Housholder.
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