At his Maison Margiela debut, the highlight of the season, Glenn Martens arrived at relevance from the opposite direction. Whereas van Herpen grew algae, Martens played with the veneer of decay, referencing ‘nature morte’ paintings and bricolaged designs, many of which were made from deadstock, which challenged the idea of value.
Martens defied a linear understanding of time through a dialogue with the history of the house. By “resurrecting” existing materials he recognized the symbiosis between past and present (as the Smashing Pumpkins’ song that accompanied the show put it, “the killer in me is the killer in you”), creating a sense of continuity with what came before, both chez Margiela and more broadly in Northern Europe of the Middle Ages.
The designer, who was looking at Gothic cathedrals and spires, which are monuments to creative human endeavor, didn’t shy away from the idea of revealing his process, either. As achingly beautiful as many of the clothes were, this wasn’t an easy show, it grappled with monumentality and mortality. Full-bodied and vital, it was a collection with a beating heart.
Custom Taylor-ed
At the couture, moodboard dressing was taken to the next level.
Balenciaga, fall 2025 couture
Photo: Courtesy of Balenciaga
Elizabeth Taylor in BUtterfield 8, 1960.
Photo: MGM Studios / Getty Images
Nancy Cunard, 1932
Photo: Bettmann
Schiaparelli, fall 2025 couture
Photographed by Acielle/Style Du Monde
Midsummer Romance
Ethereal white dresses and tops are coming your way.
Christian Dior, fall 2025 couture
Photo: Paolo Lanzi / Gorunway.com
Ashi Studio, fall 2025 couture
Photo: Salvatore Dragone / Gorunway.com
Chanel, fall 2025 couture
Photo: Armando Grillo / Gorunway.com
Julie de Libran, fall 2025 couture
Photo: Daniele Oberrauch / Gorunway.com
Maison Francesco Scognamiglio, fall 2025 couture
Photo: Stefano Galuzzi / Courtesy of Maison Francesco Scognamiglio
Dangerous Liasions
Dress like a latter-day Antoinette in a rococo dress—or like an Antoine in a frock coat.
Elie Saab, fall 2025 couture
Photo: Filippo Fior / Gorunway.com
Elie Saab, fall 2025 couture
Photo: Filippo Fior / Gorunway.com
Christian Dior, fall 2025 couture
Photo: Paolo Lanzi / Gorunway.com
Schiaparelli, fall 2025 couture
Photo: Courtesy of Schiaparelli
Rene Savary, Duke of Rovigo.
Photo: Print Collector / Getty Images
Ashi Studio, fall 2025 couture
Photo: Salvatore Dragone / Gorunway.com
Belle-Epoque Curves
From the Worth retrospective to the runways, curves rule.
Schiaparelli, fall 2025 couture
Photo: Courtesy of Schiaparelli
Ashi Studio, fall 2025 couture
Photo: Salvatore Dragone / Gorunway.com
Jean Béraud, Une Soirée, 1878.
Photo: Heritage Images / Getty Images
Balenciaga, fall 2025 couture
Photo: Courtesy of Balenciaga
Elie Saab, fall 2025 couture
Photo: Filippo Fior / Gorunway.com
On Form
Couture was a Build-a-Body masterclass.
Christian Dior, fall 2025 couture
Photo: Paolo Lanzi / Gorunway.com
Schiaparelli, fall 2025 couture
Photo: Courtesy of Schiaparelli
Schiaparelli, fall 2025 couture
Photo: Courtesy of Schiaparelli
Viktor & Rolf, fall 2025 couture
Photo: Umberto Fratini / Gorunway.com
Rare Birds
Designers dress taloned birds of prey as well as songbirds.
Maison Margiela, fall 2025 couture
Photo: Filippo Fior / Gorunway.com
Schiaparelli, fall 2025 couture
Photo: Courtesy of Schiaparelli
Zuhair Murad, fall 2025 couture
Photo: Alessandro Lucioni / Gorunway.com
Maison Francesco Scognamiglio, fall 2025 couture
Photo: Stefano Galuzzi / Courtesy of Maison Francesco Scognamiglio
Chanel, fall 2025 couture
Photographed by Acielle / Style Du Monde
Armani Privé, fall 2025 couture
Photo: Daniele Oberrauch / Gorunway.com
Viktor & Rolf, fall 2025 couture
Photo: Umberto Fratini / Gorunway.com
Schiaparelli, fall 2025 couture
Photographed by Acielle/Style Du Monde
Giambattista Valli, fall 2025 couture
Photo: Courtesy of Giambattista Valli
Iris van Herpen, fall 2025 couture
Photo: Daniele Oberrauch / Gorunway.com
Maison Margiela, fall 2025 couture
Photo: Filippo Fior / Gorunway.com
Chlorophyl Dressing
In a black and white season, green is a sign of hope and new beginnings.
Maison Margiela, fall 2025 couture
Photo: Filippo Fior / Gorunway.com
Armani Privé, fall 2025 couture
Photo: Daniele Oberrauch / Gorunway.com
Ronald van der Kemp, fall 2025 couture
Photo: Salvatore Dragone / Gorunway.com
Natan, fall 2025 couture
Photo: Courtesy of Natan
The Lady in Gold
Designers took a shine to Gustav Klimt for fall.
Gustav Klimt, Portrait of Adele Bloch-Bauer I, 1907
