Graphic jolt apart, this was a collection of gentle deconstruction and thoughtful renovation from Jun Takahashi’s Undercover. It saw the designer make delicate experiments with classic clothing recipes in order to hint at subtly fresh wearable flavors: fashion fusion cuisine.
The opening look mixed a workwear jacket and cuffed track pant in light white cotton, to which tweaks in placket, seaming, collar shape and fastening added a varietal uniqueness. A black dress pant came with a folded white T-shirt that hung from the waistline as a flounce. Suspender straps peeped from the waistline of a black skirt. Denim jackets and pants were constructed from an asymmetric patchwork collage of fabric whose attractively illogical fit made the outfit.
Some fun piano key stripes played out across a slashed back T-shirt layered over a silky blouse or paneled into the shoulders of a jersey cardigan. Hoodies and pants cut from striped shirting fabric and featuring shirt construction details in the yolk and hem were pleasantly contemporary alternatives for those inclined to pajama dressing. Mixed material hemming created a trompe l’oeil impression of layering on a denim shirt, while roughly cut raised inserts tracing the arms and hood of a hoodie subtly changed the signature of its silhouette. A brocade insert created mild surprise in an MA1, while the outline of a corseted LBD impressed within the facade of a maroon shirt was more directly arresting.
A horizontally conjoined T-shirt, faux fur fronted and jersey panel backed jacket, and viscose fronted pleat-inserted camp collar shirt eased into the final phase of the collection. This was defined by a mournful floral print spliced with some of the fragmented garment samples we had already seen Takahashi mix with. With a gently eroticized black suit, the season faded to black.
#Undercover #Resort #Collection #Vogue
